Archiv der Kategorie: Englisch

Shifting stripes shawl

Ja, diese Anleitung gibt es nur in englisch, aber sie ist relativ einfach, weil es sich immer wiederholt und man nur rechte Maschen strickt.

Ich habe mir dieses Jahr etwas Wolldiät verordnet und habe dazu einen Bobbel auseinander gewickelt um dieses Tuch zu stricken. Erst die Überlegung wie wickel ich ihn auseinander und dann wo fang ich an.
Erst einmal wiegen, damit ich die Hälfte des Bobbels hinbekomme. Die Entscheidung war die, ich wickel ihn ab bis zur Häfte und dann stricke ich den Rest von innen, der abgewickelte natürlich von aussen.
Das sah dann so aus


Gesagt getan, voll motiviert fange ich an, Habe mir das Video gefühlte 100 mal angesehen und die Anleitung ausgedruckt, mir in meine persönliche Strickschrift übersetzt und ich sage euch es war der totale Mist. 😦 😦
Der Rand war so unruhig und bei dem Übergang zu den verkürzten Reihen hatte ich Löcher, ich habe so oft probiert und geribbelt , das ich bestimmt 20 Meter Garn entsorgt habe , die Wolle war durch die Ribbelei so unansehnlich geworden. Es hatte keinen Zweck, also habe ich mir einen größeren Rest genommen und ausprobiert und ausprobiert, zwischendurch aufgegeben, dachte das gibt es ja nicht…….. irgendwie muss das doch klappen. Hier mal die Anleitungslinks zum Tuch.

link zum Video Link zur schriftlichen Anleitung in Englisch

Zwei Facebookfreunde halfen mir auf die Sprünge.


Bei dem Rand habe ich die letzte und die erste Masche verdoppelt, also KBF
Bei dem Übergang stricke ich keine KBF, das ergab bei mir immer ein unansehnliches Loch, ich konnte so fest zeihen, wie ich wollte.
Da habe ich wie folgt gestrickt. nach dem Markierer aus dem Querfaden eine neue Masche geholt, diese gleich verschränkt abstricken und eine rechte Masche stricken, Arbeit wenden und dann diese letzte Masche ungestrickt auf die rechte Nadel legen und so fest ziehen, das sich so kleines Öhrchen bilden, die aus dem Querfaden ebenso rechts stricken und dann immer so weiter, wie es in der Anleitung steht, die Zunahmen immer im Querfaden außer am Rand, den Abschluss habe ich mit 2 Maschen icord gemacht ohne eine zusätzliche Zunahme.

Eine Masche stricken, 2 zusammen stricken und beide wieder auf die linke Nadel, eine Masche stricken 2 zusammen usw,

Das Tuch hat mit etwas weniger als 1000 m eine Größe von 200 cm und eine Tiefe von ca 55 cm ., gestrickt mit Nadelstärke 3 und einem Bobbel von der FB Gruppe Bobbeltastisch spiegelverkehr gewickelt BOBBELTASTISCH


Hier noch ein paar Impressionen aus trial and error 😀 😀
aber wer nicht wagt, der nicht gewinnt und ich bin so froh ❤ 😀 , das ich es probiert habe und letztlich nicht gescheitert bin.
Danke das ihr bis hierhin gelesen habt. ❤ ❤

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Orange scarf in Musternixen Style

I’ve tried out a yarn by Katia that was supplied to me by Katia. Here is a link to more information K A T I A − you can’t order from there, though, you have to find an authorized dealer that carries their yarns.
After I had finished knitting the scarf, I put it in the washing machine in the delicate cycle at 30°C 86.0 °F, with a 900 rpm spinning cycle :D, to find out how it (fiber content: 50/50 wool/polyester) would hold up to washing. I have to say, it washed well, after which I pulled it into shape with clothespins and let it dry overnight. The finished size is 185 cm 73 in long and 28 cm 11 in wide. It’s a nice size to tie , or be worn as a loop or be draped with a shawl pin.
How I knitted it:
The yarn I’ve already mentioned above,
Needle size 3.5 mm US4
I cast on 70 sts,
then worked the first 10 rows in garter stitch.
At least the first 5 and the last 5 sts garter stitch,
——–otherwise the edges will curl————-
After that, I worked purely at random. If so to speak, NO BRAIN
very relaxing, without counting and without paying special attention, to what would come next.

  1. moss stitch
  2. 6 rows stockinette and 2 rows reverse stockinette Did not wait until the next knot and just worked 4 rows eyelet pattern
  3. double moss stitch
  4. 3 x 6 rows stockinette and 2 rows reverse stockinette
  5. triple moss stitch, not over 2 sts but over 3 sts instead Did not wait until the next knot and to the next knot, worked in eyelet pattern.
  6. 6 rows stockinette and 2 rows reverse stockinette
  7. moss stitch
  8. eyelet pattern
  9. 6 rows stockinette and 2 rows reverse stockinette
  10. double moss stitch the last 10 rows garter stitch.
    Best regards and thanks to Ravelry for translating

Crocheted Musternixe with beads

Crocheted Musternixe, enhanced with beads

First published February 3.

This pattern is provided free of charge. “Musternixe” © Kerstin Karla

I have to admit, this was not uncomplicated – I love to knit and crochet, and initially thought it would be easy, but it was not like that. It took me an awfully long time, and I frequently had to rip back because some things just didn’t work. I’ll write down the Little Knot Method for you and will be glad to see what your creativity makes out of it. Looking forward to seeing your pictures, which you can show on my Facebook page, Musternixe.

There are different types of shawls – this one is slightly asymmetrical.
In case you want to crochet it, read through all of the instructions first. I tried to write down the instructions as clearly as possible so that beginning crocheters can make this shawl, too.
For yarn substutions, the shawl may be worked from leftovers or sock yarn.

I have used a three-strand non-plied yarn (1000 meters [1094 yards]), but omitted the last color section. I estimate having used up 800 m [875 yards]. I used a crochet hook 3 mm [US between C and D, UK/Canadian 11].
The finished shawl is 190 cm [75 in] wide and about 80 cm [31.5 in] deep.

About the general shape:

The whole shawl is worked in half double crochet = hdc (US term) throughout. If using double crochets, then use only dc’s throughout, no other stitches of different height. This is important to avoid uneven increases and an unevenly wide shawl, which wouldn’t be possible to correct with blocking alone.

There is no chart.

Start by chaining 5.
Inserting hook into 4th chain from hook, hdc 2, turn work. I’ve made a small video for this, which can be found at the end of the blog post.

Row 2:
Every row starts with “chain 3”!

Increases are worked on one side (at one edge) only! Every row ends with “hdc 3 into the last stitch”, every row starts with “chain 3 (instead of the first hdc), hdc 2”. This creates the increase.

This is the general construction, now you can continue until the shawl has reached the desired size. The following stitch patterns always start at the straight (non-increase) edge of the shawl, which is easier.
Following is a description of the stitch patterns I have  used, in the order in which they appear throughout the shawl.
From Stitch pattern #2 onward, at the beginning of the row, ALWAYS start at the straight (non-increase) edge of the shawl  with “chain3 + hdc 3”, otherwise your shawl will have an untidy fluttery edge. At the end of the row you will have, including the increase, 7 hdc’s, work is turned and you start again with “chain 3, hdc 2, hdc 4”, and only after this, start the actual stitch pattern for that row!!
Stitch pattern #2: chain 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc 1 etc. Please pay attention to the EDGE !!!  Here, too, a little explanatory video is included at the end of this post.

Stitch pattern #3: Worked in Front & Back Post hdc, with beads added.

Video Front & Back Post hdc        Video Adding beads

Stitch pattern #4: Front & Back Post hdc, worked staggered, One row of FPhdc and BPhdc, next row vice versa.
Stitch pattern #5: One row of hdc’s, on the wrong side hdc, Chain 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc etc.
Stitch pattern #6: again hdc’s, and the occasional FPhdc and BPhdc, with added beads if desired.
Stitch pattern #7: alternating Front & Back Post hdc:  alternate “FPhdc 2, BPhdc 2” for 2 rows, in the 3rd row staggering the pattern.
Stitch pattern #8: In this row, you need to pay special attention!!
Start the row with “hdc 4”. Skip 1 stitch, into the 2nd stitch, work hdc 3, now, skip 2 sts and then again hdc 3, skip 1 etc. Pay special attention to the wrong side row, so you don’t end up too close to the edge. For best results, first, on the wrong side, work another group of “hdc 3”, if you are now at the end of the row, don’t use the last “HOLE”. Otherwise, it would produce an increase. 
This stitch pattern can lead to the shawl being rather floppy – to counter that, I have worked a row of “Chain 2, hdc 1” after it. This ends at the straight (non-increase) edge. If it doesn’t end there, you have to make it to.
Stitch pattern #9: Alternate “FPhdc 2, BPhdc 2”. This was the last row.

Blocking is mandatory for your “Musternixe”. I hung mine on a clothesline when still wet and weighed it down with clothespins.

I had fun enhancing this shawl with added beads, which is something I definitely want to do again. At the bottom point, I’ve sewn on a little silver pendant, which I like very much.  I’ve tried to find a video on the internet but was unable to locate a useful one. The main idea is the same as in this link, though.

Video: The beginning is done

No fluttering edge, it’s ALWAYS hdc’s.

Bereich mit Anhängen

Vorschau für YouTube-Video „Häkeln Reliefstäbchen Anleitung – Vorne – Grundlagen für Anfänger | Häkeltipps“ ansehen

Häkeln Reliefstäbchen Anleitung – Vorne – Grundlagen für Anfänger | Häkeltipps

Vorschau für YouTube-Video „Musterstricken – Perlen einstricken“ ansehen

Musterstricken – Perlen einstricken

Musternixe in Englisch, Pattern Nix

Short explanation regarding the yarn used

The yarn is not plied – it’s what’s called “gefacht” in German, a multi-strand non-plied yarn where gradual color changes are achieved by exchanging one of the strands for a different color.
This means the strands are arranged parallel to each other, but not twisted around each other,
which makes for a very neat stitch definition.
At every color change, there is a small knot with two ends, which are not meant to be cut off, but left in. The little knot will tell us when to change the stitch pattern.

It took me 3 weeks to knit mine, which I deem a reasonable time for a shawl like this one.

The idea:
I wanted a shawl to be combined with jeans, nothing too fancy, and no garish colors. It was supposed to look sophisticated, but also fresh and sportive at the same time.
Not too easy to accomplish ;).

Finding yarn proved to be easy. Mondscheinnacht  by Lady Dee fit the bill. It has 4 strands, and any substitutions should also have exactly four, otherwise the individual stitch pattern sections will turn out too large.

Now the next decision: what type of shawl – inspiration was needed. First, I started out making a “Virus shawl”, but five rows into it, it became obvious to me that the result was too girly for my taste. Thus I unraveled that attempt.

That left me with knitting, but knitting up 1000 meters [1094 yards] seemed so daunting, I thought I would never finish.

How could I motivate myself???
Working every day to the next little knot!
Starting a new stitch pattern at every knot!
That’s the way I did it.
Finished size of the shawl 230 x 70 cm [91 x 28 in] on 3 mm [US 2.5] needles.
I wrote down for you how I made my MUSTERNIXE (stitch pattern mermaid), which doesn’t pretend to be a real pattern, rather an inspiration for your creativity. However, in case you pass on the idea, it would be nice if you mentioned me. :).


Cast on 4 sts.
Knit 4 sts.
Turn work, and in every other row (in every wrong side row), always on the same edge, work a kfb increase.
If you wanted to, you could now continue this way until you run out of yarn:) I did as described below. If using a solid-colored yarn, you could follow rigid row-by-row instructions, changing the stitch pattern when you start a new color at the begin of a new row. Always!! knit the first and last 2 sts in every row, so the edges won’t curl – in some rows, there will be 3 selvedge sts instead of 2, depending how it works out with the stitch pattern.

Begin of work > knit stitches only (Garter stitch)

1st Little Knot> Eyelet pattern (Worked in knit stitches only. Knit 2 sts together, make a yarn over, knit 2 sts together … and so on, the last 2 sts should be knit, to prevent curling. Knit for 3 rows over all sts.
Knit loosely, that’s easier on your fingers.

2nd Little Knot> Double Moss Stitch

3rd Little Knot> knit for 2 rows, work in stockinette stitch (k on RS, p on WS) for 6 rows, work in reverse stockinette stitch (p on RS, k on WS) for 2 rows
4th Little Knot> eyelet pattern
5th Little Knot> work in “k2, p2” ribbing for 8 rows, then „p2, k2“ ribbing for 8 rows etc
6th Little Knot> knit for 2 rows, work in stockinette stitch for 6 rows, work in reverse stockinette stitch for 2 rows
7th Little Knot> eyelet pattern
8th Little Knot> regular Moss Stitch (seed stitch)

9th Little Knot> knit for 2 rows, work in reverse stockinette stitch for 6 rows, work in stockinette stitch for 2 rows

10th Little Knot> Knit all stitches.

If using a solid-colored yarn, there could be rigid row-by-row instructions, such as “in Rows 30, 60, 90 etc, use a different stitch pattern”. Owing to the fact that color changes in the multi-strand non-plied yarn occur in regular intervals, pattern sections will gradually turn wider (with more stitches per row) and shallower (with fewer rows height-wise per pattern section).

All I still needed for this shawl was a name when somebody told me how they like “those pattern mixes” (Mustermixe), which I misheard as “pattern nixes” (Musternixe)… and what do you know, the shawl is now entitled Musternixe = Pattern Nix or Pattern Mermaid. Men like it, too; I would categorize it as UNISEX.